Time to go home!
Up at 03:45 and showered to meet our 04:30 cab for the drive to the airport and our 06:25 flight to Zagreb. From Zagreb we flew to Frankfurt and then directly home.
Overall, a long tiring day arriving home around 17:00. The only things worthy of note were
1) learning (via Croatian Airlines' magazine) that Georg von Trapp was actually Croatian. He was born in Zadar and his first two children were born while he was based in Pula, the Austro-Hungarian Empire's main naval base on the Adriatic. He also commanded the submarine base in the Bay of Kotor in 1918
2) running across Colin Powell as he was emerging from an escalator in Frankfurt airport.
10/22/09
Oct 20 (Tue) - Dubrovnik
Another overcast day with intermittent sprinkles so we were slow getting into the Old Town.
Our first stop was at the Institute for the Restoration of Dubrovnik. In addition to the photos from the devastation, there's an excellent compilation video of the live coverage reports submitted by a British journalist at the time.
As we had lunch, the sky got progressively clearer and the sun came out - just in time to do what the majority of visitors to Dubrovnik do ... walk the walls around the Old Town. The views are beautiful!
Looking east along the Stradun
Fort of St . Lawrence
Looking towards Lokrum Island
The Old Port
Looking east
We never made it up to Fort Srd but the above is how the Old Town looks from up there.
After finishing the wall walk, our final stop was the Jewish Museum and Synagogue.
We had supper at a family-run place on 'Restaurant Row' and returned to the hotel to pack for the trip home.
Our first stop was at the Institute for the Restoration of Dubrovnik. In addition to the photos from the devastation, there's an excellent compilation video of the live coverage reports submitted by a British journalist at the time.
As we had lunch, the sky got progressively clearer and the sun came out - just in time to do what the majority of visitors to Dubrovnik do ... walk the walls around the Old Town. The views are beautiful!
Looking east along the Stradun
Fort of St . Lawrence
Looking towards Lokrum Island
The Old Port
Looking east
We never made it up to Fort Srd but the above is how the Old Town looks from up there.
After finishing the wall walk, our final stop was the Jewish Museum and Synagogue.
We had supper at a family-run place on 'Restaurant Row' and returned to the hotel to pack for the trip home.
Oct 19 (Mon) - Dubrovnik
Got to sleep in but got up to a rainy day - ugh !!!
Hung around the hotel all morning and were out to lunch in the shopping area near our Hotel Argosy.
The Ploče Gate (east entry)
We headed into the Old Town mid-afternoon. We visited the Dominican Monastery, the Serb Orthodox church and the Sponzi Palace.
The Palace is the best example of Dubrovnik's golden age in the 15th and 16th centuries with a Renaissace ground floor and upper level in typical Venetian Gothic.
Inside the Palace (now the state archives) is a special room known as the Memorial Room of the Dubrovnik Defenders. These are the heroes who enabled Dubrovnik to survive the bombing onslaught and 7 month seige conducted by the Serbs and Montenegrins in 1991.
Most buildings along the Stradun (main street of the Old Town) use to look like this but following the quake of 1667, were built more simply, solidly but less interestingly.
After supper in the Old Town, we returned to the hotel.
-- Post From My iPhone
Hung around the hotel all morning and were out to lunch in the shopping area near our Hotel Argosy.
The Ploče Gate (east entry)
We headed into the Old Town mid-afternoon. We visited the Dominican Monastery, the Serb Orthodox church and the Sponzi Palace.
The Palace is the best example of Dubrovnik's golden age in the 15th and 16th centuries with a Renaissace ground floor and upper level in typical Venetian Gothic.
Inside the Palace (now the state archives) is a special room known as the Memorial Room of the Dubrovnik Defenders. These are the heroes who enabled Dubrovnik to survive the bombing onslaught and 7 month seige conducted by the Serbs and Montenegrins in 1991.
Most buildings along the Stradun (main street of the Old Town) use to look like this but following the quake of 1667, were built more simply, solidly but less interestingly.
After supper in the Old Town, we returned to the hotel.
-- Post From My iPhone
10/18/09
Oct 18 (Sun) - Dubrovnik
Over the course of its tumultuous history, Dubrovnik had to be extensively reconstructed; the earthquake of 1667 destroyed much of the city; and in recent memory, the town was bombarded by over 2,000 shells in 1991-2. After great international efforts, the city has been restored to its former glory, with its towering fortifications, magnificent medieval
architecture, red tiled roofs, winding paved streets and picturesque harbours.
We were off early at 8:30 and into the Old Town in order to get ahead of the tour groups from the cruise ships in town. Unfortunately we had another overcast and cool day with rain which led me to put off any photography until the weather makes the city more photogenic.
We started with a walking tour of Dubrovnik's historic center with local guide Antonia. We visited the Franciscan Monastery, the Rector's Palace, the Cathedral (the latter on our own); en route we saw many famous landmarks including Onofrio's fountain, the Clock Tower, Roland's Column and the Church of St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik.
[The Clock Tower; the Rector's Palace]
[St. Blaise's church]
The afternoon was free so that those heading home tomorrow might enjoy the sights or activities that appeal most to them (e.g. walking the walls).
Our plan is to spend two extra days here so with that in mind, combined with the lousy weather, we took the afternoon off and returned to the hotel where I caught up with the research reading I should have been doing all along.
We returned to the Old Town for 6:30 to join the others for our farewell dinner at Dubrovnika just outside the Pile Gate. And an excellent dinner it was!
We returned to the hotel and met to share a special shot of Rakija to wish each other safe travels and a fond 'do videnja' as some will be leaving *very* early in the morning.
-- Post From My iPhone
architecture, red tiled roofs, winding paved streets and picturesque harbours.
We were off early at 8:30 and into the Old Town in order to get ahead of the tour groups from the cruise ships in town. Unfortunately we had another overcast and cool day with rain which led me to put off any photography until the weather makes the city more photogenic.
We started with a walking tour of Dubrovnik's historic center with local guide Antonia. We visited the Franciscan Monastery, the Rector's Palace, the Cathedral (the latter on our own); en route we saw many famous landmarks including Onofrio's fountain, the Clock Tower, Roland's Column and the Church of St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik.
[The Clock Tower; the Rector's Palace]
[St. Blaise's church]
The afternoon was free so that those heading home tomorrow might enjoy the sights or activities that appeal most to them (e.g. walking the walls).
Our plan is to spend two extra days here so with that in mind, combined with the lousy weather, we took the afternoon off and returned to the hotel where I caught up with the research reading I should have been doing all along.
We returned to the Old Town for 6:30 to join the others for our farewell dinner at Dubrovnika just outside the Pile Gate. And an excellent dinner it was!
We returned to the hotel and met to share a special shot of Rakija to wish each other safe travels and a fond 'do videnja' as some will be leaving *very* early in the morning.
-- Post From My iPhone
Oct 17 (Sat) - Montenegro
With a long day ahead of us, we were on the bus at 7:30 and headed east of Dubrovnik along the coast to Montenegro one of Europe's newest countries. The day was overcast with occasional light rain.
After pausing and clearing both the Croatian and Montenegren border (unusual within Europe these days), our encounter began in the Bay of Kotor, a fjord of 32 km cut deep into the mountains.
After ferrying across the Verige Strait, we picked up our Montenegren guide (6' 6") and headed up into the rugged mountains with increasingly breathtaking views following each of the 25 switchbacks. The overcast day naturally diminished the majesty of the scenery we would have had on a sunny day but "them's the breaks" when you're on a fixed tour.
[View from switchbacks #25]
Coming down the other side we stopped for lunch at a country inn. We had sandwiches made of local ham and cheese all washed down with local wine.
We then continued to the former capital, Cetinje where we visited the Monastery and the National Museum honouring King Nikola I.
[Overlooking Budva]
Back down at sea level we skipped the scheduled visit to Budva (where we were to enjoy dinner at one of Budva's attractive seaside restaurants), for more time in the town of Kotor's Old Town. Here, after visiting the Cathedral of St. Tryphon, we had time on our own to enjoy the sights.
Back on the bus, we were back to our Dubrovnik hotel shortly after 7. With having had such a long day, our supper was at the hotel, buffet style.
-- Post From My iPhone
After pausing and clearing both the Croatian and Montenegren border (unusual within Europe these days), our encounter began in the Bay of Kotor, a fjord of 32 km cut deep into the mountains.
After ferrying across the Verige Strait, we picked up our Montenegren guide (6' 6") and headed up into the rugged mountains with increasingly breathtaking views following each of the 25 switchbacks. The overcast day naturally diminished the majesty of the scenery we would have had on a sunny day but "them's the breaks" when you're on a fixed tour.
[View from switchbacks #25]
Coming down the other side we stopped for lunch at a country inn. We had sandwiches made of local ham and cheese all washed down with local wine.
We then continued to the former capital, Cetinje where we visited the Monastery and the National Museum honouring King Nikola I.
[Overlooking Budva]
Back down at sea level we skipped the scheduled visit to Budva (where we were to enjoy dinner at one of Budva's attractive seaside restaurants), for more time in the town of Kotor's Old Town. Here, after visiting the Cathedral of St. Tryphon, we had time on our own to enjoy the sights.
Back on the bus, we were back to our Dubrovnik hotel shortly after 7. With having had such a long day, our supper was at the hotel, buffet style.
-- Post From My iPhone
10/17/09
Oct 16 (Fri) - Mostar to Dubrovnik
We began our day with a walking tour of Mostar with Maja, a local Bosniak young woman of 24. Our tour include a visit to the ancient city dating to the 16th/17th centuries, a visit inside a traditional Turkish house dating to this period, and a visit to the recently rebuilt Mostar Bridge, the emblem of the city.
One aspect of Maja's tour focussed on the rich heritage of the city and the three ethno/religious groups that had demonstrated how diverse groups could get along successfully.
Then came the war sparked by Bosnia's decision to break away from Yugoslavia and all hell broke loose. Croats on the west side of the river 'cleansed' its neighbourhoods of Serbs while on the east side Serbs 'cleansed' the Croats and Bosniaks from their areas. Meanwhile the Croats on the western high ground shelled the Old Town and bridge until it collapsed.
The bridge has been re-built (thanks to contribtions from around the world and the EU). But as Maja tells it the common people have moved somewhat while politicians use every opportunity to foment the old grievances. This story may not be over for some time yet ...
[The flag of BIH: points on the triangle representing its 3 areas and 3 peoples ... Bosniaks, Croats & Serbs]
I should mention that we are actually in the Herzegovina part of BIH - the Bosnian part is farther north (and not visited on this trip).
We left Mostar, heading south to the coast then east towards Dubrovnik. En route we stopped at the historic, walled town of Ston.
We arrived into Dubrovnik in the late afternoon and had some time in the Old Town on our own before supper. I spent the time tracking down some sobe (room in private home) for our post tour extra days.
We met at 7:15 and walked the short distance to the restaurant. We both had the 'Chopped beef with tomato in red wine sauce, with vegetable'. What arrive looked more like Alpo cubes mixed into a bowl of penne - not great.
-- Post From My iPhone
One aspect of Maja's tour focussed on the rich heritage of the city and the three ethno/religious groups that had demonstrated how diverse groups could get along successfully.
Then came the war sparked by Bosnia's decision to break away from Yugoslavia and all hell broke loose. Croats on the west side of the river 'cleansed' its neighbourhoods of Serbs while on the east side Serbs 'cleansed' the Croats and Bosniaks from their areas. Meanwhile the Croats on the western high ground shelled the Old Town and bridge until it collapsed.
The bridge has been re-built (thanks to contribtions from around the world and the EU). But as Maja tells it the common people have moved somewhat while politicians use every opportunity to foment the old grievances. This story may not be over for some time yet ...
[The flag of BIH: points on the triangle representing its 3 areas and 3 peoples ... Bosniaks, Croats & Serbs]
I should mention that we are actually in the Herzegovina part of BIH - the Bosnian part is farther north (and not visited on this trip).
We left Mostar, heading south to the coast then east towards Dubrovnik. En route we stopped at the historic, walled town of Ston.
We arrived into Dubrovnik in the late afternoon and had some time in the Old Town on our own before supper. I spent the time tracking down some sobe (room in private home) for our post tour extra days.
We met at 7:15 and walked the short distance to the restaurant. We both had the 'Chopped beef with tomato in red wine sauce, with vegetable'. What arrive looked more like Alpo cubes mixed into a bowl of penne - not great.
-- Post From My iPhone
10/16/09
Oct 15 (Thur) - Hvar to Mostar
We were on the bus by 8:30 to start our cross-island jaunt to the eastern end of Hvar Island for the ferry back to the mainland. The trip across the island provided some great vistas over the island as well views of the mainland.
We reached the far end of the island in plenty of time and we all got out for a comfort break and coffee while waiting for the ferry.
When came time to board the ferry, one of our group was AWOL. The tour leader ran back the 100 metres thru the hamlet frantically trying to locate him. He eventually emerged from a side street and the APB was called off and everything got back to normal.
The crossing took only 30 minutes and we landed at Drvenik. Soon afterwards we stopped for lunch.
After lunch we drove along the coast to Opuzen where we turned inland and headed up the Neretva valley crossing the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina (BIH) at Metkovic.
Shortly after crossing into BIH, we had a 30 minute stop at Pocitelj for a look at a well preserved blend of Mediterranean and Oriental architecture.
One of the first things we noticed as we crossed into BIH was that the ethnic and religious divisions that marked the war of the 1990s have not yet healed. To wit, all road signs must be indicated in both the Latin script (for Catholic Croats and Bosniak Muslims) and using the Cyrillic alphabet for the Orthodox Serbs. In the areas occupied by the former, quite often the Cyrillic version has been blotted out by spray paint, while reverse takes place in the Serb areas.
We then continued our drive to Mostar, arriving in mid-afternoon.
With hours to spare before supper we toured the historic central core on our own. Sadly, damages from the war continue to be evident everywhere in the core of the city where so much of the bombing and shooting went on. Below the view from our room's window.
We headed out to supper at 7 and walked down to a restaurant next to the Old Bridge area. I had the house schnitzle which oozed a sea of cheese once I cut into it - not low-cal for sure.
-- Post From My iPhone
We reached the far end of the island in plenty of time and we all got out for a comfort break and coffee while waiting for the ferry.
When came time to board the ferry, one of our group was AWOL. The tour leader ran back the 100 metres thru the hamlet frantically trying to locate him. He eventually emerged from a side street and the APB was called off and everything got back to normal.
The crossing took only 30 minutes and we landed at Drvenik. Soon afterwards we stopped for lunch.
After lunch we drove along the coast to Opuzen where we turned inland and headed up the Neretva valley crossing the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina (BIH) at Metkovic.
Shortly after crossing into BIH, we had a 30 minute stop at Pocitelj for a look at a well preserved blend of Mediterranean and Oriental architecture.
One of the first things we noticed as we crossed into BIH was that the ethnic and religious divisions that marked the war of the 1990s have not yet healed. To wit, all road signs must be indicated in both the Latin script (for Catholic Croats and Bosniak Muslims) and using the Cyrillic alphabet for the Orthodox Serbs. In the areas occupied by the former, quite often the Cyrillic version has been blotted out by spray paint, while reverse takes place in the Serb areas.
We then continued our drive to Mostar, arriving in mid-afternoon.
With hours to spare before supper we toured the historic central core on our own. Sadly, damages from the war continue to be evident everywhere in the core of the city where so much of the bombing and shooting went on. Below the view from our room's window.
We headed out to supper at 7 and walked down to a restaurant next to the Old Bridge area. I had the house schnitzle which oozed a sea of cheese once I cut into it - not low-cal for sure.
-- Post From My iPhone
10/14/09
Oct 14 (Wed) - Hvar
"The island of Hvar receives 2,724 hours of sunshine per year, more than anywhere else in Croatia, and is thus called the "Island of the Sun". This picturesque town and marina is alive with the constant hum of activity." [Ed. Note: no constant hum at this time of year!]
This morning we had a 2 hour walking tour of the town led by a local guide. The weather was a continuation of yesterday's chilly 'bora' wind (cool & dry).
Sights included the 15th century Franciscan Monastery, which had an interesting painting of the Last Supper. It isn't Leonardo but it is quite good and the associated story of its creation is fascinating. We also visited St. Stephen's Cathedral.
The afternoon was free for personal time and independent exploration. I took a hike up to the Venetian castle above town for some superb views over the town and bay.
[Panorama stitched from 2 images]
Having done laundry last night, most of the afternoon was dead time as not much is going on in a town of 4,000 at this time of year.
Supper was in a restaurant nearby and featured a seafood terrine for a starter. We then had a choice of sea bass or chicken in a truffles cream sauce for our main - I had the chicken and quite enjoyed it. Dessert was a semifreddo with walnuts.
-- Post From My iPhone
This morning we had a 2 hour walking tour of the town led by a local guide. The weather was a continuation of yesterday's chilly 'bora' wind (cool & dry).
Sights included the 15th century Franciscan Monastery, which had an interesting painting of the Last Supper. It isn't Leonardo but it is quite good and the associated story of its creation is fascinating. We also visited St. Stephen's Cathedral.
The afternoon was free for personal time and independent exploration. I took a hike up to the Venetian castle above town for some superb views over the town and bay.
[Panorama stitched from 2 images]
Having done laundry last night, most of the afternoon was dead time as not much is going on in a town of 4,000 at this time of year.
Supper was in a restaurant nearby and featured a seafood terrine for a starter. We then had a choice of sea bass or chicken in a truffles cream sauce for our main - I had the chicken and quite enjoyed it. Dessert was a semifreddo with walnuts.
-- Post From My iPhone
10/13/09
Oct 13 (Tues) - Split
[Some interesting notes on religion in Croatia. The vast majority of the population is RC so the Church wields considerable influence on the political process. In fact, the salaries and pensions of priests and nuns are paid by the state, plus they don't pay taxes]
Split is the second largest city of Croatia. The historic city center actually lies in the walls of the enormous retirement Palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian, built between 295-305 AD. The palace served as a palace, military fortress, and later, a fortified town.
The city is enclosed by huge walls, pierced by 4 main gates, one on each side of the rectangular plan. More recently a promenade was built along the harbour and comes alive with locals taking an evening stroll or relaxing in the seaside cafes outside the ancient palace walls.o
This morning we had a walking tour through the heart of ancient Split and then had lunch on the promenade. In addition to seeing the ancient city, we also got to see two excellent examples of sculptures done by Croatia's world-reknown artist Ivan Mestrovic.
After lunch we boarded the bus and then onto the ferry for the 2-hour crossing to the island of Hvar.
After checking into the hotel,
[view from our room]
we took a walk around the small harbour to do some setting sun photography.
Our supper was taken in the hotel's restaurant. We could choose between two alternatives: fish or pork. I started with a black risotto (due to squid's ink) followed by sauteed slices of turkey with prošut (the pork got lost somewhere). Prices are significantly higher here than on the mainland- house wine costs about 2-3x more.
-- Post From My iPhone
Split is the second largest city of Croatia. The historic city center actually lies in the walls of the enormous retirement Palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian, built between 295-305 AD. The palace served as a palace, military fortress, and later, a fortified town.
The city is enclosed by huge walls, pierced by 4 main gates, one on each side of the rectangular plan. More recently a promenade was built along the harbour and comes alive with locals taking an evening stroll or relaxing in the seaside cafes outside the ancient palace walls.o
This morning we had a walking tour through the heart of ancient Split and then had lunch on the promenade. In addition to seeing the ancient city, we also got to see two excellent examples of sculptures done by Croatia's world-reknown artist Ivan Mestrovic.
After lunch we boarded the bus and then onto the ferry for the 2-hour crossing to the island of Hvar.
After checking into the hotel,
[view from our room]
we took a walk around the small harbour to do some setting sun photography.
Our supper was taken in the hotel's restaurant. We could choose between two alternatives: fish or pork. I started with a black risotto (due to squid's ink) followed by sauteed slices of turkey with prošut (the pork got lost somewhere). Prices are significantly higher here than on the mainland- house wine costs about 2-3x more.
-- Post From My iPhone
10/12/09
Oct 12 (Mon) - Zadar, Trogit, Split
Today we travelled back down to the Adriatic coast via Zadar, the ancient capital of Byzantine Dalmatia.
We entered the city through one of the Venetian gates and were met by a local guide who took us around to witness the sea organ in action (neat!) and then proceeded to the Roman Forum, the Church of St. Donatus (pictured below) and the Cathedral of Anastasius. The visits to either the Archaeological Museum or the Treasury of St. Mary's did not take place.
We were released for some free time at one of the main squares at noon as it started to rain. We tried to find a restaurant to have a sandwich and a soft drink but every restaurant with seating offered only coffee and sweets, or alcohol.
Not knowing the area or in which direction to go, the increasing intensity of the rain upped the ante to find some place quickly. Seeing a sign indicating some fast food, we ducked into a courtyard and found a table.
While I waited to put in our order, the one-person operator talked on a cell phone. After waiting for some 5-10 minutes while she continued talking, we just walked out.
We eventually found a small grocery store that had prepared meats and a variety of breads. I managed to explain to the clerk that we each wanted a prošut sandwich, which she made. We then found a spot under a tree a few blocks away where we could sit on some rocks and eat lunch while staying pretty well dry.
After lunch we continuedp via the expressway to the walled island town of Trogir. Here we visited the Cathedral of St. Lawrence (side chapel pictured below) and had some time to wander and explore the medieval streets - it was nice. The entire town has been preserved as yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Finally we continued to Split and our overnight stop.
Due to the rain which had by now increased significantly, we took taxis to our supper. I had the house speciality marinated beef (Dalmatian style) - it was tasty but not as flavourful as Sauerbraten IMO.
We (most of us) walked from the restaurant back to the hotel in the rain and heavy gusts of wind that was ripping umbrellas - we saw the carcasses of several of these in the streets.
-- Post From My iPhone
We entered the city through one of the Venetian gates and were met by a local guide who took us around to witness the sea organ in action (neat!) and then proceeded to the Roman Forum, the Church of St. Donatus (pictured below) and the Cathedral of Anastasius. The visits to either the Archaeological Museum or the Treasury of St. Mary's did not take place.
We were released for some free time at one of the main squares at noon as it started to rain. We tried to find a restaurant to have a sandwich and a soft drink but every restaurant with seating offered only coffee and sweets, or alcohol.
Not knowing the area or in which direction to go, the increasing intensity of the rain upped the ante to find some place quickly. Seeing a sign indicating some fast food, we ducked into a courtyard and found a table.
While I waited to put in our order, the one-person operator talked on a cell phone. After waiting for some 5-10 minutes while she continued talking, we just walked out.
We eventually found a small grocery store that had prepared meats and a variety of breads. I managed to explain to the clerk that we each wanted a prošut sandwich, which she made. We then found a spot under a tree a few blocks away where we could sit on some rocks and eat lunch while staying pretty well dry.
After lunch we continuedp via the expressway to the walled island town of Trogir. Here we visited the Cathedral of St. Lawrence (side chapel pictured below) and had some time to wander and explore the medieval streets - it was nice. The entire town has been preserved as yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Finally we continued to Split and our overnight stop.
Due to the rain which had by now increased significantly, we took taxis to our supper. I had the house speciality marinated beef (Dalmatian style) - it was tasty but not as flavourful as Sauerbraten IMO.
We (most of us) walked from the restaurant back to the hotel in the rain and heavy gusts of wind that was ripping umbrellas - we saw the carcasses of several of these in the streets.
-- Post From My iPhone
10/11/09
Oct 11 (Sun) - Plitvice Lakes National Park
At first glance I must say that I wasn't bowled over by what we saw of Zagreb - it was OK but nothing to get too excited about.
Before going to bed last night, I started going thru the brochures of Zagreb we had picked up. If the photos are really representative of reality, we missed some very beautiful and interesting architecture such as the main railway station, the former stock market, the Hotel Esplanade, just to name a few.
We left Zagreb today at 9 am (overcast with slight drizzle) and arrived at Plitvice Lakes NP around 11:30. Here, 16 lakes, each at a different level, join each other in a series of cascading waterfalls. The water is so clear that you can see everything on the bottom for several feet yet from higher levels the water reflects a rich blue-green reminescent of Lake Louise.
The topography of the area is very similar to our Gatineau Hills so we felt very much at home. The leaves are in the process of turning so more colour to add to the scenery (but without the beautiful scarlet reds that paint Eastern Canada at this time of year).
The entire area is protected as one of UNESCO's Natural World Heritage Sites.
Our walk started (sun having shown up just in time!) at the Lower Lakes and we made our way upwards to the midpoint where we stopped for lunch.
We then proceeded across a lake by boat
and completed the Upper Level walk before returning to our on-site hotel (Jezero) by shuttle. Total time was approximately 4 hours.
[Had I had a camera with adjustable exposure controls, I could have taken the above shot myself ;)]
All hotels at this national park are govt owned and operated. That combined with ingrained former Communist state service norms make for a rather unremarkable venue and cuisine (but with free wifi!).
We started supper with a tepid vegetable soup followed by roast beef (it was tender) with a mushroom sauce and some sort of bread dumpling. Dessert was canned fruit cocktail or ice cream.
[Bonus: Canadian maple leaf - thanks Chris!]
-- Post From My iPhone
Before going to bed last night, I started going thru the brochures of Zagreb we had picked up. If the photos are really representative of reality, we missed some very beautiful and interesting architecture such as the main railway station, the former stock market, the Hotel Esplanade, just to name a few.
We left Zagreb today at 9 am (overcast with slight drizzle) and arrived at Plitvice Lakes NP around 11:30. Here, 16 lakes, each at a different level, join each other in a series of cascading waterfalls. The water is so clear that you can see everything on the bottom for several feet yet from higher levels the water reflects a rich blue-green reminescent of Lake Louise.
The topography of the area is very similar to our Gatineau Hills so we felt very much at home. The leaves are in the process of turning so more colour to add to the scenery (but without the beautiful scarlet reds that paint Eastern Canada at this time of year).
The entire area is protected as one of UNESCO's Natural World Heritage Sites.
Our walk started (sun having shown up just in time!) at the Lower Lakes and we made our way upwards to the midpoint where we stopped for lunch.
We then proceeded across a lake by boat
and completed the Upper Level walk before returning to our on-site hotel (Jezero) by shuttle. Total time was approximately 4 hours.
[Had I had a camera with adjustable exposure controls, I could have taken the above shot myself ;)]
All hotels at this national park are govt owned and operated. That combined with ingrained former Communist state service norms make for a rather unremarkable venue and cuisine (but with free wifi!).
We started supper with a tepid vegetable soup followed by roast beef (it was tender) with a mushroom sauce and some sort of bread dumpling. Dessert was canned fruit cocktail or ice cream.
[Bonus: Canadian maple leaf - thanks Chris!]
-- Post From My iPhone
10/10/09
Oct 10 (Sat.) - Zagreb
Great breakfast this morning and we were on the road by 9.
Other than the couple of kilometers as we drove around the top of the Kvarner Gulf, the drive to Zagreb (Croatia's capital) was pretty boring.
However the day was sunny and beautiful and we arrived in Zagreb circa 12:30. Hotel check-in, lunch and then met for a tour with a local guide at 14:00. We covered all the key sights and were finished by 16:00.
[St. Mark's church]
During the course of the tour it had become overcast and we had some slight showers - nothing significant but it was enough to clear the squares of Zagrebers so there wasn't much people watching to be done.
[Jelačic Square]
Unfortunately, being Saturday afternoon, all the top museums were closed, as was the Croata store where we had planned to buy a special souvenir - shades of Ljubljana where we had missed out on the top museum because our tour was there on a Sunday.
With 3 hours until supper and several days before we next get to spend 2 consecutive nights in the same hotel, we caught up with laundry.
Supper was close to our Hotel Dubrovnik at Restoran Vinodol. My Medvedgradski ?? (veal with mushrooms and covered with cheese) was very good. One of their specialties is veal cooked 'peka' style, including potatoes - it was very good too.
Other than the couple of kilometers as we drove around the top of the Kvarner Gulf, the drive to Zagreb (Croatia's capital) was pretty boring.
However the day was sunny and beautiful and we arrived in Zagreb circa 12:30. Hotel check-in, lunch and then met for a tour with a local guide at 14:00. We covered all the key sights and were finished by 16:00.
[St. Mark's church]
During the course of the tour it had become overcast and we had some slight showers - nothing significant but it was enough to clear the squares of Zagrebers so there wasn't much people watching to be done.
[Jelačic Square]
Unfortunately, being Saturday afternoon, all the top museums were closed, as was the Croata store where we had planned to buy a special souvenir - shades of Ljubljana where we had missed out on the top museum because our tour was there on a Sunday.
With 3 hours until supper and several days before we next get to spend 2 consecutive nights in the same hotel, we caught up with laundry.
Supper was close to our Hotel Dubrovnik at Restoran Vinodol. My Medvedgradski ?? (veal with mushrooms and covered with cheese) was very good. One of their specialties is veal cooked 'peka' style, including potatoes - it was very good too.
Oct 9 (Fri) - Poreč, Rovinj, Pula, Opatija
The night was a frustrating one of our tour mates in the next room (which overlooked the square). He fell asleep early and slept through the rock concert which ended at 23:30. Then he
was awakened by the church bell ringing 23:45, then midnight, then 0;15 ... and so it went on thru the night, every quarter hour!
We left Piran at 08;00 as we had a full day in Istria. We proceeded shortly across the border into Croatia - both Slovene and Croatian agents came aboard in turn to check our passports.
Our first stop was Poreč, a pretty seaside town dating back to the Roman period. The main purpose here was to walk through the ancient narrow lanes and visit the Euphrasian Basilica. This church houses some of the finest Byzantine mosaics in the world, comparable to those in Ravenna. The Basilica is listed among many others a protected UNESCO World Heritage site.
We then continued to the historic town of Rovinj where we visited the church of St. Euphemia and had lunch on the harbour.
Our next stop was in Pula to visit the Roman amphitheater, the 6th largest and best preserved. The amphitheater was designed to host gladiatorial contests and could accommodate up to 22,000 spectators.
We finished our day at 18:30 in Opatija, the oldest established and still one of the most popular Croatian resorts. The first villa was built here in 1844, and after a visit by the trend-setting wife of the Austrian Emperor (Sissi), the town was promoted as a handy health resort for aristocratic Austrians.
We stayed at the Hotel Bristol, a typical beautiful Belle Epoque resort hotel and had supper at a nearby restaurant with most choosing the fresh hake.
-- Post From My iPhone
was awakened by the church bell ringing 23:45, then midnight, then 0;15 ... and so it went on thru the night, every quarter hour!
We left Piran at 08;00 as we had a full day in Istria. We proceeded shortly across the border into Croatia - both Slovene and Croatian agents came aboard in turn to check our passports.
Our first stop was Poreč, a pretty seaside town dating back to the Roman period. The main purpose here was to walk through the ancient narrow lanes and visit the Euphrasian Basilica. This church houses some of the finest Byzantine mosaics in the world, comparable to those in Ravenna. The Basilica is listed among many others a protected UNESCO World Heritage site.
We then continued to the historic town of Rovinj where we visited the church of St. Euphemia and had lunch on the harbour.
Our next stop was in Pula to visit the Roman amphitheater, the 6th largest and best preserved. The amphitheater was designed to host gladiatorial contests and could accommodate up to 22,000 spectators.
We finished our day at 18:30 in Opatija, the oldest established and still one of the most popular Croatian resorts. The first villa was built here in 1844, and after a visit by the trend-setting wife of the Austrian Emperor (Sissi), the town was promoted as a handy health resort for aristocratic Austrians.
We stayed at the Hotel Bristol, a typical beautiful Belle Epoque resort hotel and had supper at a nearby restaurant with most choosing the fresh hake.
-- Post From My iPhone
Oct 7 (Wed) - Triglav NP, Kobarid, Bovec
[Note: this entry was lost while in the process of loading originally and is consequently out of date sequence]
Today we were scheduled to drive along the most spectacular stretch of Alpine scenery in Slovenia, through the Vrsic Pass into Triglav National Park area.
Unfortunately, because of the soft roadway causes lateral twists on the bus's frame, there is possibilty of cracking the windows. So instead we took a more circuitous route via Italy and back into Slovenia via the Predil Pass.
We then followed the Soca River to the Trenta Museum dedicated to the geology, flora, fauna and history of Triglav National Park. It also has an exhibit dedicated to the mountain guides,
shepherds and woodsmen of the region.
Our next stop was Kobarid, first to have lunch and then to visit the excellent Kobarid Museum. The museum has won the Council of Europe prize for Best Museum, and draws over
60,000 visitors annually. The museum is dedicated to the Isonzo or Soca Front, which witnessed some of the greatest mountain battles in history. Hundreds of thousands were killed here during 1915-1917; Ernest Hemingway described the Italian retreat in his book, "A Farewell to Arms".
After the museum, we went up to the Italian Charnel house and Church of St. Antony, located on a hill above Kobarid town. It houses the bones of over 7,000 Italian soldiers killed here during World War I.
After our visit, we drove back to the pretty town of Bovec nestled in the Soca Valley and near the Kanin ridge, for our overnight.
Supper was a la carte so I had the rumpsteak with gorganzola sauce - odlično! (delicious)
-- Post From My iPhone
Today we were scheduled to drive along the most spectacular stretch of Alpine scenery in Slovenia, through the Vrsic Pass into Triglav National Park area.
Unfortunately, because of the soft roadway causes lateral twists on the bus's frame, there is possibilty of cracking the windows. So instead we took a more circuitous route via Italy and back into Slovenia via the Predil Pass.
We then followed the Soca River to the Trenta Museum dedicated to the geology, flora, fauna and history of Triglav National Park. It also has an exhibit dedicated to the mountain guides,
shepherds and woodsmen of the region.
Our next stop was Kobarid, first to have lunch and then to visit the excellent Kobarid Museum. The museum has won the Council of Europe prize for Best Museum, and draws over
60,000 visitors annually. The museum is dedicated to the Isonzo or Soca Front, which witnessed some of the greatest mountain battles in history. Hundreds of thousands were killed here during 1915-1917; Ernest Hemingway described the Italian retreat in his book, "A Farewell to Arms".
After the museum, we went up to the Italian Charnel house and Church of St. Antony, located on a hill above Kobarid town. It houses the bones of over 7,000 Italian soldiers killed here during World War I.
After our visit, we drove back to the pretty town of Bovec nestled in the Soca Valley and near the Kanin ridge, for our overnight.
Supper was a la carte so I had the rumpsteak with gorganzola sauce - odlično! (delicious)
-- Post From My iPhone
10/8/09
Oct 8 (Thur) - Predjama - Piran
[Note: I had a lot of problems yesterday trying to post from Bovec - the service kept complaining about size of pix so I removed one after another 'til there were none left ... and then my time ran out.]
[Same today - I'm removing pix.]
Driving the along the banks of the emerald-green Soça River, we made our way out of Alpine territory on an overcast morning.
Our first stop was Predjama Castle, located in the middle of an overhanging, limestone cliff, in the entrance of a cave. The cave was utlitised by a robber baron from 15th century to carry out raids on rich merchants and nobles.
We then continued on to Piran, located on Slovenia's tiny strip of Adriatic coast on the Istrian penninsula ... just in time for the sun to come out, full force.
The town reflects its Venetian heritage with narrow streets and compact houses giving the town its special charm.
After time for lunch on our own (they have Doner Kabobs here too!) on the main square, our guide led us in a leisurely walking tour of Piran followed by time on our own. We took the opportunity of the free time to visit the Maritime Museum.
Our group supper was at a restaurant along the waterfront. We then had the 'opportunity' to attend a rock concert in Tartini Square - it's going on
directly outside our hotel room window as I post this entry.
-- Post From My iPhone
[Same today - I'm removing pix.]
Driving the along the banks of the emerald-green Soça River, we made our way out of Alpine territory on an overcast morning.
Our first stop was Predjama Castle, located in the middle of an overhanging, limestone cliff, in the entrance of a cave. The cave was utlitised by a robber baron from 15th century to carry out raids on rich merchants and nobles.
We then continued on to Piran, located on Slovenia's tiny strip of Adriatic coast on the Istrian penninsula ... just in time for the sun to come out, full force.
The town reflects its Venetian heritage with narrow streets and compact houses giving the town its special charm.
After time for lunch on our own (they have Doner Kabobs here too!) on the main square, our guide led us in a leisurely walking tour of Piran followed by time on our own. We took the opportunity of the free time to visit the Maritime Museum.
Our group supper was at a restaurant along the waterfront. We then had the 'opportunity' to attend a rock concert in Tartini Square - it's going on
directly outside our hotel room window as I post this entry.
-- Post From My iPhone
10/5/09
Oct 6 (Tues) - Bled, Lake Bohinj
Couldn't wait to see what the lake looked like with an early morning sun. It was pretty nice ...
as was the castle directly across the lake from the hotel.
But the days of bacon & eggs for breakfast are over, though there was lots to choose from (including OJ with 'champaigne').
First up for the day was a drive around the lake and then a trip up and into the 11th century castle. We were led by a local guide who would be with us throughout the day.
The castle houses a small museum and provides magnificent views of the town, lake and mountains.
After our visit, we were driven to the other end of the lake to board a unique Slovenian boat (a 'pletna') to take us to Bled Otok, a tiny island in the middle of the lake.
This island is the scene of many traditional Slovene weddings; that is once the groom carries the bride up the 99 steps to the Church of St. Mary of the Assumption!
Others come simply to ring the church's bell and have a wish come true.
We then drove to Lake Bohinj, the largest lake in Slovenia, in Triglav National Park.
From here we took a cable car climbing some 1537m up to Mt Vogel, the mountain ski resort. As it was a clear and sunny day, we could see the peaks of the Julian Alps, including Mt. Triglav, the national symbol of Slovenia. Also, at our feet, was a spectacular panorama of Lake Bohinj and its basin.
[Note: differences in colour were introduced by the photo stitching program]
We had lunch at the top. Then back down at lake level, we took time to wander around and enjoy the park's natural areas and its pristine waters - I have never seen such clear water. We returned to Bled late afternoon.
The group supper was at a restaurant specializing in area cuisine. The main course (for all) was a Balkan mixed grill platter (čevopčeče meat, pork chop, sausage, baked beans, etc.) which was followed with ice cream.
Tomorrow we head north and west into natural and thinly populated areas.
-- Post From My iPhone
as was the castle directly across the lake from the hotel.
But the days of bacon & eggs for breakfast are over, though there was lots to choose from (including OJ with 'champaigne').
First up for the day was a drive around the lake and then a trip up and into the 11th century castle. We were led by a local guide who would be with us throughout the day.
The castle houses a small museum and provides magnificent views of the town, lake and mountains.
After our visit, we were driven to the other end of the lake to board a unique Slovenian boat (a 'pletna') to take us to Bled Otok, a tiny island in the middle of the lake.
This island is the scene of many traditional Slovene weddings; that is once the groom carries the bride up the 99 steps to the Church of St. Mary of the Assumption!
Others come simply to ring the church's bell and have a wish come true.
We then drove to Lake Bohinj, the largest lake in Slovenia, in Triglav National Park.
From here we took a cable car climbing some 1537m up to Mt Vogel, the mountain ski resort. As it was a clear and sunny day, we could see the peaks of the Julian Alps, including Mt. Triglav, the national symbol of Slovenia. Also, at our feet, was a spectacular panorama of Lake Bohinj and its basin.
[Note: differences in colour were introduced by the photo stitching program]
We had lunch at the top. Then back down at lake level, we took time to wander around and enjoy the park's natural areas and its pristine waters - I have never seen such clear water. We returned to Bled late afternoon.
The group supper was at a restaurant specializing in area cuisine. The main course (for all) was a Balkan mixed grill platter (čevopčeče meat, pork chop, sausage, baked beans, etc.) which was followed with ice cream.
Tomorrow we head north and west into natural and thinly populated areas.
-- Post From My iPhone
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